The 501

Remember those Carnation advertisements featuring contented cows?

If not, here’s the gist: Carnation milk, evaporated though it was, supposedly came from the world’s most contented cows. As a child, I found those ads credible. Never mind that the concept of a can holding something “evaporated” was hard to grasp. If it’s evaporated, how come it feels so heavy? I’m still asking.

But the connection bet…